Leaving Our Luggage Behind And Crossing Over The Bridge

Stephanie and I crossed an ocean to get to Ireland, but when we arrived in Dublin I told her that I also wanted to cross a bridge. We took a taxi to the picturesque landmark. The overcast sky did nothing to diminish the bounce in my step. Steph jokingly suggested that I skip across because this was not just any pedestrian pathway. This was the Ha’penny Bridge.

The DK Eyewitness Travel 2018 Ireland edition explains why it is so special. “Linking the Temple Bar area…and Liffey Street, this high-arched cast-iron footbridge is used by thousands of people every day. It was built by John Windsor, an ironworker from Shropshire, England. One of Dublin’s most photographed sights, it was originally named the Wellington Bridge. It is now officially called the Liffey Bridge, but is also known as the Ha’penny Bridge. Opened in 1816, the bridge got its better-known nickname from the halfpenny toll that was leveled on it up until 1919. Restoration work, which included the installation of period lanterns, has made the bridge even more attractive.”

The Ha'penny Bridge

World Briefing | Europe: Ireland: Hardier, Ha'penny Bridge Reopens

“The Ha'penny Bridge, so named because pedestrians were charged a half-penny to cross in early 19th century Dublin, reopened [in 2001] after nine months of repairs costing $2.3 million. At peak hours, more than 30,000 people walk the footbridge spanning the River Liffey every day. The 185-year-old wrought-iron railings and structural supports were originally designed to handle just 450 people daily. The reopening coincides with efforts to spruce up the riverside, adding boardwalks with cafes and stalls for booksellers. “ Brian Lavery of The New York Times, Dec. 22, 2001

Liffey Bridge (plaque)

LIFFEY BRIDGE
(HA'PENNY BRIDGE)
Built in 1816
The original name of this bridge was Wellington Bridge.
The official name since 1838 is Liffey Bridge.
It is commonly called the Ha'penny Bridge as a toll was charged on the Bridge up to March 1919.

On The Other Side

It’s the same message on the other side of the bridge. Whichever way you cross, you will be informed.

An Evolving Purpose

This important explanation greeted us once we crossed over the bridge. I’d like to think that kind people helped to pay the toll for those who could not afford it. A bridge should connect us all.

"Early 19th century Dubliners were proud of this aesthetically beautiful bridge which segregated them from the poorer classes of Dublin who could not afford the toll.

With the coming of the railways, the wealthy moved to the suburbs and with the emancipation of the Catholics in 1829, the Ha'penny Bridge became a bridge for all the people of Dublin and so the role of the Ha'penny Bridge evolved from one of privilege and aesthetic beauty to one of utilitarian purpose."

From A Distance

We took a photo from further away, so you would have the experience of approaching the bridge from a distance.

Sidewalk's Point Of View

Does a sidewalk near a footbridge feel upstaged as the less celebrated pedestrian pathway or is it honored to work beside such a famous compatriot?

This is a view of the sidewalk in front of the bridge. That is a very bright shirt and a very dark sky. I’m just noticing the contrast now.

Having A Nice Swim

Notice the duck venturing across the River Liffey, getting some morning exercise. Must be invigorating! I will never know.

A View From The Bridge

No, this is not Arthur Miller’s Brooklyn Bridge. This is a view from the Ha’penny Bridge toward the O’Connell Bridge. They can see each other, but they’ll never cross paths. It really is kind of sad.

A Journey Back And Forth

One of the many times that I crossed the Ha’penny Bridge.

According to the book, The Ha'penny Bridge, Dublin: Spanning the Liffey for 200 Years by Michael English, the now-defunct bridge toll replaced a Liffey ferry toll, which charged passengers a half-penny.

What???

Put down those phones, people or I’ll throw them in the River Liffey. How much do we miss because we’re staring at our phones all the time? (P.S. I wouldn’t throw anything in the river because that’s where ducks get their morning exercise.)

A Historic Footbridge Enthusiast

Now here is someone who is taking full advantage of their time on the bridge. Hello, Stephanie!

What Would It Be Like To Kayak On The River Liffey?

Actually, I wonder how Steph would feel about kayaking the River Liffey. She is a good swimmer and she just liked my tweet about the article, “Kayaking the 'River of Life' in Ireland: Sure, you could drive alongside it. But what's the rush?” By Alex Schechter from Condé Nast Traveller. I’d say that’s as good as a green light. She can join my duck friend.

Flowing From The River To The Sea

“It then flows eastward through the city of Dublin, in which it is extensively canalized and bordered with quays. It empties into Dublin Bay, an arm of the Irish Sea, after a course of 50 miles (80 km).” Encyclopaedia Britannica on “River Liffey”

A Graceful Dancer

Just look at that pretty arch. I see a dancer stretching. Wouldn’t it be lovely to see ballet dancers perform grands jetés across the bridge? I don’t know about the practicality of that dream, but Riverdance performed across the Ha’penny in 2005.

Lovely Lantern

One of the lovely lanterns on the Ha’penny Bridge. I’d like to see the bridge lit up at night. The world just feels more magical then sometimes. I wonder if anyone has proposed marriage here.

J.J Scollan Couldn't Have Been The Only One

There was bragging about not paying the toll.

No Surprise Visit By A Dolphin This Time

Stephanie and I did not see a dolphin during our visit, but there was one spotted swimming in the river in 2018.

Directions

You just cross the road to get to the bridge to get to the other side.

Rippling, Entrancing Energy

The water was black and shiny and mysterious and mesmerizing. The River Liffey is the vein of life in Dublin.

Steph and I were no exception in our photographing enthusiasm. We were remiss in not getting a rowboat, but we snapped away from land and on the bridge itself. We took turns in which one of us would go and stand on the bridge and wave, and the other would take a photo from the sidewalk. The lovely lanterns were also our subjects and I took individual photos of the plaques at both ends, even though they said the same thing. (See the above photo gallery.) After all, history matters, from whichever side you’ve embarked on your journey. (For Steph and I, it was from America. For many of our ancestors, it was from here - Ireland.) We also photographed the bridge from across the street for yet another perspective and we used it as a backdrop for selfies to show that we were honest about our travel plans and to inspire jealousy on social media.

Still, the Ha’penny Bridge was our star and if it could talk, it might give us a gregarious Irish welcome and offer safe passage or it might also, understandably, sigh with good-natured resignation about fans always clamoring for a photo with it or crossing and recrossing it many times. In my defense, it was good exercise and the only toll I paid (since the official one hasn’t been in effect for over 100 years) was that I gave myself away as an obvious tourist amongst the brisk-paced foot traffic.

First Selfie

Second Selfie

Third Selfie

Fourth Selfie

We did eventually cross over the bridge for the last time to shop for candy (the best incentive) at Butlers Chocolate Café on Liffey Street. We noticed some flavors that we’ve never tried before, such as Baileys Crème chocolates. (Baileys is an Irish cream liqueur.) Steph also met a few locals, as you’ll see in the photo gallery below, before we went to lunch. We wanted the recommendations of some true Dubliners.

Helpful Signs

I really appreciate all the signage in Dublin and I think it’s a big part of why we didn’t get lost but I never tired of the thrill of seeing the location names in Irish too. The city is steeped in Irish history. You can feel the pride. Someday I hope to attend a performance at the famous Abbey Theatre.

Statues That Celebrate Everyday Life

This is Jackie McKenna's 1988 bronze sculpture Meeting Place. It is known locally as The Hags with the Bags. I have to admit, the nickname is easier to remember.

Joining In On The Conversation

Steph mingling with the locals.

The Sign Of A Successful Shopping Trip

The bag of one of the lovely ladies/statues of Jackie McKenna's 1988 sculpture Meeting Place.

The name on the bag is Arnotts, a well-known department store in Ireland. I want to know what’s inside the bronze bag. Is it: a Jakks ReDo Pink Palm Shorty Cruiser Skateboard; a Whistles Jemma Wild Leopard Jumpsuit; or a Whirlpool 9kg 6th Sense Heat Pump Tumble Dryer? Well…it’s probably not that last one.

Butlers Chocolate Café

“All cafés offer a wide range of hot and cold beverages, morning goods and sweet treats that are part of Butlers Chocolate Café signature offer and of course the house speciality, Butlers award winning Hot Chocolate.”

We mostly picked out gifts for loved ones. Next time, I would also like to have a hot chocolate, after all it is award winning, or a white hot chocolate or both.

The “100% Irish family owned” company is named after its original founder, Marion Butler. I think they should have chosen to name it after her first name, since it’s also my mother’s name, except she spells Marian with an a.

Lovely Display

I like the pretty colors of the boxes and the ribbons.

Whenever my mom gets candy as a gift, I always take a photo of the box (and her) because the extra touch of the ribbons and cards helps to make it a happy occasion.

Stepping Up To The Counter

How about we start with one of each?

The Vanilla (Vanille in French) Is Radiant

It’s bridal gown white. The many flavors, including Vanille, intrigued me, such as Marzipan, Double Chocolate, and Orange Crunch. Also, those chocolate hearts have my heart.

Please Pass The Caramels

The Salt Caramel chocolates looked scrumptious and the Almond Café looked enticing as well, especially since it was a new flavor to me.

For The Dark Chocolate Lovers

I noticed the Dark Salt Caramel for the dark chocolate lovers, such as my dad. The White Butter Praline and White Chocolate Flake would be great choices for someone such as myself, who appreciates white chocolate. I also love Coconut, as do my mom and sister, who requested a homemade coconut cake, which my mom and I baked for her.

A Taste of Ireland

Baileys Crème is a unique flavor I haven’t seen in candy before, which is infused with Baileys, an Irish cream liqueur. (Also look at that mountain of White Chocolate Flake in the background.)

Another Way To Get Your Coffee

This Latte flavor seems right for my mom and sister, who are both coffee drinkers. My late grandmother also might have enjoyed it, as she liked coffee ice cream.

Instruments For The Music Of Ireland

Dublin is a city that prides itself on live music, so it was not surprising to see a store such as Music Minds. It is an,“Irish musical instrument retailer on Dublin's Lower Liffey St.,” according to the store’s Instagram account.

Gorta is Irish for famine, obviously referring to the Great Famine that occurred here in Ireland between 1845–1849.

Do Angels Get Their Harps In Ireland?

I don’t have wings but I contemplated buying a small harp in Music Minds. I saw one in the storefront (see photo). I checked their website and they don’t seem to have any currently in stock. Maybe there was an angels convention and they all sold out. Even the harp magnet was unavailable. I really fell in love with harp music while I was in Ireland. I’m going to go on a harp hunt the next time we visit the Emerald Isle.

You're All Set

You get your sugar fix at Butlers and then you slay with your “fantastical miniature soldiers” at Games Workshop. Steph and I just went to lunch.

Another Form Of Transportation

I think it would be fun to bike around Dublin.

We had a nice meal at The Woollen Mills, a former “knitting emporium,” which once employed James Joyce. He sold tweeds; we chose sandwiches. After lunch, we went on one of my “flower walks,” where I snap photos of flowers instead of picking or stealing them. I saw so many gorgeous window boxes that I am seriously considering installing them in my home. I just need to talk the family into it, maybe over a box of chocolates. We’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.

The Woollen Mills

Stephanie and I had lunch at this restaurant. They call themselves an “Eating House.” It is across the street from the Ha’penny Bridge. James Joyce, the celebrated Irish writer, once worked for the haberdashery that was there before the eating house.

A Word And A World Away

Sambo in Irish slang means sandwich. It is obviously not the offensive term for a black person. One use feeds the body, the other degrades the soul.

So Many Choices!

What will you be having? Their menu has changed since Steph and I were there pre-Covid-19, but there continue to be tasty items. I’m so glad to see that they have reopened. There is an updated menu on their website.

Atmosphere

Steph and I were there a bit earlier than the lunch crowd. I remember talking to her and hearing someone from another table identify me as an American to their companion, which was equally thrilling and disappointing. I’m proud to be American, but if I want to pass myself off as Irish I’m going to have to work on my accent.

My Lunch

I had the "Ploughman's sambo: Coolattin Irish Cheddar, butterhead lettuce + piccalilli." I also had butternut squash soup. Coolattin is in Co. Wicklow. Piccalilli is a mixed vegetable relish. Oxford Languages defines it as, “a relish of chopped vegetables, mustard, and hot spices.”

Steph's Lunch

Steph had the butternut squash soup too and the “Tuna Reuben’ (Shines’ tuna, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese + Thousand Island).” Shines Wild Irish Tuna is a family-owned business based out of Killybegs, Donegal.

Check, Please!

Aoife was our server. Isn’t that the most lovely Irish name? It means "beautiful, radiant," in Irish Gaelic.

On another note, I think the “meat” on the receipt was actually our soup.

Beautiful Flowers

How lovely is this?

A Wonderful Window Box

I had to take a second photo because I love window boxes. This one is especially lovely with the cascading flowers.

More Cascading & Hanging Flowers

Dublin does this so well! I feel so much happier when I see pretty flowers like this.

Irish Alley

Even the alleys in Dublin are colorful.

More Colorful Dublin

Dublin is a city that expresses itself.

Trinity College, Dublin

This is a view of Trinity College, Dublin from College Street.

Thomas Moore

This dignified statue is of Thomas Moore. It is on College Street. Thomas Moore was an Irish author and composer.

More Wonderful Window Boxes!

I love them!

The Vegan Movement Represents

“VEGAN MEANS NO KILLING: nice isn't it”

“R.I.P“- The R is crossed out and replaced with an L for Live In Peace.

I have a lot of respect for the vegan movement and those who care about animal rights. It’s nice to see that view represented, especially when traditional Irish cuisine so often includes meat.

Another View Of Stately Dublin

Dublin has such elegance. As can be seen in this photo, the Garda is often a familiar sight. That made me feel safe.

Good advice on both sides of the pond.